AFRICA: Climbing Kilimanjaro & Safari - July 2023

 The air is getting thinner and it's harder to breathe. Time to start taking the Diamox for altitude sickness. At this point Robert, our lead guide started to take our oxygen and pulse readings each night, plus a casual inquiry how we are feeling. So far so good. No chronic headaches.  All climbers must register at each camp. I was thumbing through the register to get a feel for the demographics. A large portion of the hikers are from the USA, with Europe 2nd. About 45% were women, average age late 20's to early 40's.  Very few 60 or over. I was the oldest climber in the register over recent weeks.  This is me and my personal porter Leocadia. She carries my duffel bag and gets my tent ready. She isn't 5 ft, about 42 y/o, and a single mother of 2. She gets no special treatment at camp, and doesn't speak any English. She is incredible.  The guy with the orange pack is Gideon. He is the assistant guide. A seasoned guide he sometimes leads us climbers or take up the...

 The End Came as a Surprise I made it to 13,000 feet, to the Third Cave Camp where it was just about 10 km to the Kibo Camp. Kibo is  at 15,000 ft elevation and is the final camp before the ascent to the summit.  I couldn't make it to Kibo camp. With my oxygen levels readings in the low 80s, both the lead Guide and I agreed I needed to climb down to the Rongoro Gate and get a ride back to Lindrin Lodge.  I was sick, dehydrated, and suffering from altitude sickness. It was 28 km and 6 hours down the mountain.  Let's just say I was sick in many ways and beyond miserable. Gideon, my guide insisted I keep walking otherwise if I stopped I might not get up. Don't stop. PMA (positive mental attitude) was failing me. I kept going albeit more slowly than usual.  I wasn't alone in the pain. Gideon, my guide was suffering as well.  But he carried my day pack since I was so weak. He kept pushing me to keep walking although the trail was brutal filled with rocks an...

 We are taking a route called The Northern Circuit. It is 9 days to complete but this allows time for the body to acclimate to the altitude, hence the best chance of being able to summit. It has a 95% success rate. The route starts on the west side of Kibo (the actual name of the Kilimanjaro mountain), then winds east around the north side of the mountain. There are huts-campsites spaced a days hike apart as you ascend to the last site called Kibo Hut (15,000 ft). This is the point where climbers get ready for the night hike to Uhuru summit (19,341 ft).  At 15,000ft you can't sleep anyway so you start at 11pm or midnight. It's only 4km but you have no strength due to low oxygen. It's very steep and very cold (below freezing). The moorlands is compromised of thick brush with a few unusual plant unique to Kilimanjaro. There is no animal life for a few ravens.  Nice trail with some other hikers We stopped for a short break. Robert, our lead guide, was always telling us to ea...

After a long drive to our starting point we are getting ready to start the first day of hiking. The bus ride drove through the countryside and small villages. All the gear was on top and the entire crew: 3 climbers (Jan-Mark, Pierre- O, me), 2 guides, our cook, and over 10 porters who would be carrying our 30 lb duffel bags as well as tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment and food (water is collected at each camp). After a long drive to our starting point we are getting ready to start the first day of hiking. The bus ride drove through the countryside and small villages.  All the gear was on top and the entire crew: 3 climbers (Jan-Mark, Pierre- O, me), 2 guides, our cook, and over 18 porters who would be carrying our 30 lb duffel bags as well as tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment and food (water is collected at each camp) After a box lunch and our lead guide getting us registered we unceremoniously started up a smooth dirt trail. About 6 other groups were also starting that...

Was invited to go to town with my 2 climbing companions. Took a stripped down beat up old van with 15 local occupants. Tightly packed and loud on a warm day.  After the 20 minute drive we were dropped off near the marketplace. The streets are filled with small vendors selling everything from shoes, clothes, fruits and vegetables, dried fish, and live chickens. There is the smell of smoke everywhere from the vendors cooking things.  Amazed by the beauty of women clothing. Being sold on the street.  Making sandals from old tires walked around until we were met by a guy who insisted he guide us around. He took us to the market and showed us guys playing checkers using bottle caps. Dried fish. Smells about how it looks.  Checkers and chess matches in a side alley.  I was completely unprepared for the level of activity and poverty but managed to relax a bit. People were generally friendly and let us take pictures. Of course a lot of women with small children.  T...

It's very quiet now that today's group of hikers have departed early this morning.  They were mostly energetic 20-30 somethings very excited to get going and start their climb. I don't really blame them. They have been preparing for this day for many months, and at great sacrifice.   Lindrin Lodge The outdoor lounge at the lodge I too have been preparing for this.  For nearly a year I've been living with perpetually sore muscles trying to get into marginal condition. It's been tough trying to emulate mountain climbing in Florida where the tallest "mountain" in the state is about 350 feet. My solution was to walk with a 35-40 lb pack (I only need to carry a 12-14 lb day pack on the actual hike.) And when not walking, I would take Ingrid's spin and circuit training classes. My goal there was just to keep up with the ladies. Yes, I'm looking at you Leslie, Wendy and Chris. The walking does a couple of things besides build endurance. First, it helps to...

Left Orlando on 30 June - arrive Moshi Tanzania, at the foot of Kilimanjaro on 2 July. The 45 minute drive to the lodge in Moshi was insane. The left-hand drive a la British was just a suggestion. We regularly passed trucks and motorcycles into oncoming traffic. As expected, the area is impoverished. Lots of people walking along the road. I was surprised to see so many women walking. What really caught me was how well dressed the women were. Beautiful clothes. Even the goat and cow herders were dress in bright red plaid outfits. I don't know what you would call them.  I must be cautious about taking pics of people because it is considered rude.  Lindrin Lodge in Moshi is located off the main road down a very rough dirt road. It's a gated ShangriLa in a very poor rural area. I don't think it would be safe to wander beyond the gates.  Today is a jet lag recovery day. I had tentatively planned for a tour of Moshi, thinking it must have a town center and tourist area but was ...